If you're investing any real time behind the wheel of an A70, you've probably noticed that the stock supra mk3 steering wheel is beginning to show the age. It's a vintage look, for sure, but after thirty-plus years, that manufacturer leather usually finishes up feeling even more like crusty cardboard than high-end cover. Plus, let's end up being honest: that large four-spoke design using the massive center pad definitely screams "1980s commuter car" a lot more than "legendary grand tourer. "
Transforming out the wheel is one of these projects that offers the massive "bang for your buck" in terms of how the vehicle actually feels in order to drive. Since it's the thing you're touching literally every single second you're in the driver's chair, a refresh can make the whole car feel the decade newer. Whether you're trying to keep things looking factory-fresh or you want to go full race-mode with a deep-dish aftermarket setup, right now there are a few things should know before you start yanking on the particular bolts.
The Struggle with the Factory Wheel
The original wheel that came in the MK3 wasn't actually harmful to the time. When you have a good early model (86. 5 to 88), you've got that distinct "non-airbag" look that fits the angular interior flawlessly. By the period the later versions rolled around, Toyota added the airbag, which made the particular center of the particular wheel look a bit like a fat pillow.
The biggest concern most of all of us face today is wear and tear . Sunlight is the absolute enemy of these interiors. Decades of UV rays generally mean the best of the wheel is usually cracked, or the stitching is starting to unravel. I've seen some in which the foam has actually separated from the metal core, so you can turn the grip about like an accelerator. That's not precisely the kind of "feedback" you want whenever you're carving by way of a canyon.
In case you're a purist, you might be tempted to just obtain your original wheel re-wrapped. It's a great move. There are usually shops that can strip it lower to the body and use top quality Nappa leather or even Alcantara. It maintains the interior searching "period correct" although offers you that new-car smell and grasp. But for a great deal of owners, the particular sheer size of the factory wheel may be the real deal-breaker. It's huge! It seems like you're captaining a boat sometimes.
The Famous MK4 Steering Wheel Swap
One of the almost all popular "OEM plus" mods for an A70 is swapping in a steering wheel from its younger brother, the MK4 (A80) Supra, or even a late-90s Celica or MR2. The three-spoke design associated with the later Toyota wheels looks fantastic in the MK3 cabin. It updates the look without having making it seem such as you've been shopping at an universal auto parts shop.
However, it's not exactly a "plug and play" situation. The splines on the steering column usually fit up—Toyota was pretty consistent with that—but the clock spring and luxury cruise control wiring are exactly where things get tricky. The MK3 utilizes a specific type of slider for the horn and cruise control on the non-airbag models, plus a different set up for the airbag years.
If you proceed this route, become prepared to do a couple of soldering. You'll usually have to swap the cruise control change from your aged supra mk3 steering wheel directly into the new a single, or modify the new switch in order to talk to the older ECU. It's a bit of a headache, but when you discover that modern 3-spoke wheel sitting generally there, it's usually worth the effort.
Going Aftermarket: Momo, Nardi, and Even more
If you don't care about maintaining things strictly Toyota, the aftermarket planet is your oyster. This is where you can really replace the ergonomics of the car. Most people tend to go with a 350mm wheel, which usually is a bit smaller than share. This smaller diameter the actual steering experience a bit "quicker" and gives you even more knee room, which is a godsend if you're high.
Momo and Nardi are the big hitters right here. A Momo Monte Carlo or a Nardi Deep Corn appears right at house in an 1980s Japanese cockpit. These wheels are thinner, lighter, and significantly more rigid than the old rubber-encased manufacturer units. When a person turn the wheel, you feel the vehicle react instantly instead than waiting for the old foam in order to compress.
To run one of them, you'll need a "Boss kit" or the hub adapter. This particular is where I realize people get disappointed. You've got to make sure you get the particular right one for the specific year. The particular 1989+ models along with airbags have the different column shape compared to earlier cars. Brands like Functions Bell or HKB make specific connectors that won't keep you having an enormous gap between your wheel and the plastic column shroud.
The Quick Launch Debate
As soon as you decide on a good aftermarket wheel, the particular next question is definitely: do you require a quick discharge? For a devoted track car, it's a no-brainer. It makes getting into plus out of a bucket seat method easier. For a street car, even though, it's mostly regarding the "cool factor"—and maybe a bit of security. It's pretty hard to steal a car if the robber can't steer it.
Just maintain in mind that will a quick release adds level . It brings the wheel nearer to your upper body. If you have long legs yet short arms, this particular is great. If you're already experiencing cramped, you might want to look for a "short hub" to compensate for the width of the fast release. Otherwise, you'll feel like you're traveling a NASCAR Glass car with the wheel inches through your chin.
What About the Airbag?
This is the big "safety vs. style" debate. If your own car came along with an airbag through the factory, replacing it with a MOMO or Nardi means you're removing a safety function. Some individuals aren't comfortable with that, and I totally get it.
If you do delete the airbag, you're going in order to be staring from a glowing "SRS" light on your splash forever until you do something about it. Most hub sets have a little resistor that you can plug into the factory harness. It tricks the car's computer into thinking the airbag is still right now there, which keeps the lighting off and guarantees your passenger-side airbag (if you have one) still functions properly.
Always disconnect the electric battery and wait from least ten moments before messing with the airbag wiring. Those things are essentially small explosives, and you never want one going off in your own lap while you're trying to release a bolt.
Final Touches: Horns and Cruise Control
The most common "fail" I actually see with the new supra mk3 steering wheel setup is really a non-functioning horn. It sounds like a small point until someone cuts you off within traffic and a person realize you have got no way to vent your frustration. Most aftermarket hubs use the metal body of the particular hub like a floor, so you just have to make sure the particular "pigtail" wire is definitely making good get in touch with.
In terms of cruise control, don't just tuck the wires into the dashboard and forget regarding them. If a person love long road cruises, you're likely to miss that button. Many owners 3D-print a small group that mounts at the rear of the steering wheel hub to hold the factory cruise control stalk. It's a little "DIY, " but this keeps the car's functionality intact.
At the end of the day, whether you're stitching on a new leather cover or bolting on a brushed aluminium Nardi, updating your own steering wheel is the best way to refresh the driving encounter. It requires the car from feeling such as an old relic to feeling just like a precision machine. Just take your time with the wiring, don't strip the center enthusiast, and enjoy the feel of the road again.